The Art ofBlack Hair

The tightest curl pattern on the Andre Walker hair typing system, characterised by densely packed coils with a zig-zag pattern. 4C hair has the most shrinkage (up to 75%) and requires the most moisture retention.

A rounded, voluminous hairstyle that allows natural coily or curly hair to grow outward from the scalp. Became a symbol of Black Power and pride in the 1960s–70s.

The act of cutting off chemically relaxed or heat-damaged hair to begin a natural hair journey. A deeply personal and often emotional transition symbolising liberation and self-acceptance.

A protective style originating from the Zulu people of Southern Africa, in which sections of hair are twisted and coiled into small knots close to the scalp. Can be worn as-is or unravelled for a defined curl pattern.

A protective style in which hair is divided into square sections and braided, often with added synthetic or natural hair extensions. Can be worn in various lengths and thicknesses.

Short for 'conditioner wash' — cleansing the hair with conditioner instead of shampoo to retain moisture while removing buildup. Popular in the natural hair community for maintaining hydration.

A traditional African braiding technique in which hair is braided very close to the scalp in continuous, raised rows. One of the oldest hairstyles in the world, dating back over 3,000 years in Africa.

The Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair Act — US legislation that prohibits discrimination based on hair texture and protective styles. First passed in California in 2019.

A hair treatment using a rich, penetrating conditioner left on the hair for an extended period (15–30 minutes) to restore moisture, elasticity, and strength. Essential for natural hair maintenance.

A paddle brush with rows of flexible pins, widely used in the natural hair community to detangle, define curls, and distribute products evenly through coily and curly hair.

A head covering worn to maintain wave patterns, protect hairstyles, and preserve moisture. Deeply embedded in Black American culture and fashion, the durag has evolved from a practical tool to a cultural and fashion statement.

A styling product used to smooth and lay down the short hairs along the hairline (edges). Edges are considered a point of pride and artistry in Black hair culture.

A barbering technique in which hair is gradually tapered from longer on top to very short or skin-level on the sides and back. Includes high fade, mid fade, low fade, and skin fade variations.

A styling technique in which individual sections of hair are wrapped around a finger to create defined, springy coils. Works best on 3C–4C hair types.

A styling technique popular in the 1920s–30s in which waves are created close to the head using the fingers and a comb. Associated with the Harlem Renaissance and icons like Josephine Baker.

Similar to a cornrow but using a two-strand twist technique, lying flat against the scalp. Used as a protective style and as a method to create defined twist-out patterns.

A braiding style originating from the Fula people of West Africa, characterised by a central cornrow, side braids, and decorative beads or cowrie shells. A style with deep cultural heritage.

A humectant ingredient commonly found in natural hair products that draws moisture from the air into the hair shaft. Highly effective in humid climates; can cause dryness in low-humidity environments.

The vibrant hair culture found at Historically Black Colleges and Universities, where natural hair, braids, locs, and bold styles are celebrated as expressions of identity, community, and Black excellence.

An iconic 1980s–90s hairstyle featuring a flat-top afro with shaved or faded sides. Popularised by hip-hop artists and the group Kid 'n Play. A symbol of Black cultural expression.

A chemically processed hairstyle popular in the 1980s that creates soft, glossy, loosely curled hair. Requires a two-step chemical process and regular moisturising. Associated with icons like Michael Jackson and Prince.

A hairstyle in which hair is allowed to mat and interlock into rope-like strands. Deeply spiritual in Rastafarian culture; also worn as a cultural and aesthetic choice across the African diaspora.

A moisturising technique for natural hair: Liquid (water or leave-in conditioner), Oil (to seal moisture), and Cream (to lock it in). One of the most widely used methods in the natural hair community.

The equilibrium between moisture (hydration) and protein (structural strength) in the hair strand. Natural hair requires both; too much protein causes brittleness, too much moisture causes limpness.

Hair that has not been chemically altered with relaxers, texturisers, or perms. The natural hair movement, which gained momentum in the 2000s, celebrates Black hair in its unaltered state as beautiful and worthy.

A protective nighttime technique in which natural hair is gathered loosely at the top of the head in a high, loose ponytail to preserve curl definition and prevent frizz while sleeping.

The hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture, determined by the state of the cuticle layer. Low porosity hair resists moisture; high porosity hair absorbs quickly but loses moisture fast. Understanding porosity is key to an effective hair care routine.

Any hairstyle that tucks away the ends of the hair to minimise manipulation and environmental damage, promoting length retention. Includes braids, twists, buns, locs, and weaves.

A chemical treatment that permanently straightens naturally coily or curly hair by breaking down the protein bonds in the hair shaft. Widely used from the 1950s–2000s; now declining as the natural hair movement grows.

The phenomenon in which natural coily hair appears significantly shorter when dry than when wet or stretched. 4C hair can shrink up to 75% of its actual length. Often misunderstood by those unfamiliar with natural hair.

A trademarked loc system created by Dr. JoAnne Cornwell in 1993, characterised by very small, uniform locs installed using a specific interlocking tool. Requires a certified Sisterlocks consultant.

The very short natural afro that results immediately after the Big Chop. A celebrated milestone in the natural hair journey, often accompanied by a profound sense of freedom and self-discovery.

A styling technique in which two sections of hair are twisted around each other. Can be worn as a protective style or unravelled for a defined twist-out pattern.

A styling method in which natural hair is washed, conditioned, and styled with products while wet, then allowed to air dry or diffuse into its natural curl pattern with minimal manipulation.

A hairstyle achieved on short, coily hair through consistent brushing, moisturising, and wearing a durag to compress the hair into a rippling wave pattern. Requires dedication and a specific hair care routine.

A hair extension method in which wefts of natural or synthetic hair are sewn onto braided cornrows. One of the most versatile and widely used protective styles in Black hair culture.